Ask the Psycho! Sewing Advice and General Dumb Things I say!

I get questions now and then I then I get all proud of how awesome my advice is (har har) so I thought: Hey! Why not a post series?! Feel free to submit questions to mlcloset(at)yahoo(dot)com!
Today's questions come from a reader who is a new sewer:

"Why is this "sloper" different than if I bought a plus size pattern, say from like Cindy Crawford on Butterick?  "

Dear Reader:

About fitting patterns from Butterick..... They have very detailed directions that help you to fit the pattern as close as possible. The point is to fit it very close to the body so You have like a 2D model of yourself. When you sew from it, you can add more room in the areas where you need it, like in the hips and waist, so when you sit down the skirt or dress doesn't ride up. The shell comes with two patterns. One is the fitting shell, and the other is like an instruction that teaches you how to add ease to your fitting shell so you can now make a perfect dress.

But the main point is to be able to use it to compare the vintage and modern patterns to it; by doing so you can see where the pattern you are working on is too small/big.

Don't feel discouraged because it typically takes 2-3 tries to get fit right. I have gotten much better. 

A typical pattern is not going to help you determine fit because they are drafted with EASE. The fitting shell is not. Ease varies based on a garment design and or fabric(stretchy or non stretchy). However, if you have found a pattern that fits you perfect, you can use it for your sloper. These shells are drafted with darts on the waist in the front and back, and on the bust, and on the shoulders, and front and back hips! All these darts are there for you to get a beautiful fit and shape. Most MODERN garments do NOT have all these darts.Well, basically because modern garments are not really fitted as nice as a custom made dress by you is going to be! So yes, these shaping darts are going to make a difference between a TENT and a gorgeous dress =-)

Does that help?

Another question:

"Help! My shirt came out way too big! What size do I make?"

To figure out what size to make, you should read the "finished bust size" It is probably printed on the pattern. Pick the size that is the closest to your own bust size. Allow 1-3" of wiggle room. Always go by the "finished" size, not the "body measurements" They can be misleading because they don't tell you how much ease there is. If your top is made of knit remember that it is going to stretch ALOT and you are going to need a smaller size to get a tight fit. (If that's what you are going for). Also look at finished waist and hip size and compare to your measurements.

You might end up with needing to make a size 22 Bust and a size 24 hip! Don't panic this is typical. We are not all one size! So what you do is carefully trace the size 22 bust size out on your paper pattern (making a copy of your pattern is recommended in case things go FUBAR and you have to start over), and then take a ruler and merge the size 22 Bust to the size 24 hip starting from the bust area to the hip area. Patterns mark these areas with a line so you know where they are. You might want to hold it up to your body and make sure your hips are where they have the line marked first. One important thing, if you modify the front, DON'T FORGET THE BACK! I lay my back pattern piece over top the modified front piece. Then I mark on the back the corresponding points where I just changed the front. So when I redraw the back it will MATCH the front.

What you have effectively done is customized for your size!